Antennas
- New PageWeatherproofing the Feedpoint — Step by Step
- Dual Band Dipole Antenna — 2M / 70cm Build Guide
New PageWeatherproofing the Feedpoint — Step by Step
- Clean the connections first. Use a small wire brush or fine sandpaper on the copper wire and hardware to get any oxidation off before you seal anything in.
- Apply a thin coat of dielectric grease (like the kind used on spark plugs — cheap at any auto parts store) over the bare metal connections and screw hardware. This displaces moisture and slows future oxidation.
- Wrap the connection with regular electrical tape first — just one snug layer to give the self-amalgamating tape something to grip and to hold everything mechanically in place.
- Wrap over that with self-amalgamating (self-fusing) tape. Start a couple inches below the connection on the coax, wrap up and over the whole connection, and come back down a couple inches past it on the other side. Stretch it as you wrap — that's what makes it fuse to itself and seal out water. No adhesive needed, it bonds to itself.
- Optional but good — one final layer of regular electrical tape over the self-amalgamating tape. Self-amalgamating tape can get sticky and collect dirt over time in UV exposure. The outer electrical tape layer protects it.
- Check the coax entry point into the house wherever it comes through the wall or window. That hole needs to be sealed too — a weatherproof grommet or even just silicone caulk around the cable where it enters. Water loves to wick down a coax cable and into your wall.
Dual Band Dipole Antenna — 2M / 70cm Build Guide
Overview
This guide covers building a dual-band dipole antenna for 2 meters (144 MHz) and 70cm (440 MHz) using thick copper wire, mounted on a PVC mast and fed with KMR-240 50-ohm coax.
Materials
- Thick copper wire (enough for two legs plus extra for U folds)
- KMR-240 (or LMR-240) 50-ohm coax — length to reach from antenna to radio
- Soldering iron and solder
- Dielectric grease
- PVC pipe for mast
- Screws and washers for mounting legs to PVC
- Zip ties
- Appropriate coax connectors and adapters for your radio
How It Works
Each leg of the antenna is one continuous wire with two straight radiating sections:
- The lower straight section (19.5 inches) is the 2M radiating element
- The upper straight section (6.5 inches) is the 70cm radiating element
- Any remaining wire past the 6.5 inch section is folded into a U bend — this is just wire storage, it does not radiate
The feedpoint sits at the junction between the two straight sections — where the 19.5 inch and 6.5 inch sections meet on each leg.
Wire Measurements
| Section | Length per leg |
|---|---|
| 2M radiating section | 19.5 inches |
| 70cm radiating section | 6.5 inches |
| U fold (remainder) | Whatever is left — shape does not matter |
Cut each leg with a few extra inches to allow for the U fold and for trimming at the feedpoint end.
Step 1 — Shape Each Leg
Working from the feedpoint end outward on each leg:
- Measure and mark 19.5 inches — this is your 2M section
- Continue another 6.5 inches past that mark — this is your 70cm section
- Fold any remaining wire back into a U shape — keep it tidy and not touching the other leg or the straight sections
Both legs should mirror each other. One points up from the feedpoint, one points down.
Step 2 — Mount Legs to PVC
Attach each leg to the PVC mast using screws and washers. The legs run parallel to the mast with the feedpoint junction at the center. The screw/washer hardware holds the wire mechanically — the electrical connection will be handled by solder in the next step.
Step 3 — Prepare the Coax
At the antenna end of the KMR-240, strip back enough jacket to cleanly separate:
- Center conductor — connects to one leg
- Shield braid — connects to the other leg
Tin both the coax conductors and the antenna wire ends with solder before joining them. Solder flows onto pre-tinned surfaces much more cleanly.
Step 4 — Solder the Feedpoint
The two solder joints sit at the junction between the 19.5 inch and 6.5 inch sections on each leg — right where the two straight sections meet.
- Center conductor solders to one leg at this point
- Shield braid solders to the other leg at the same point
- Keep the two joints as close together as possible without touching — a half inch gap is fine
- Make sure no braid strands are shorting to the center conductor
- Let joints cool completely before handling
Step 5 — Make a Choke Balun
Right at the feedpoint, coil 8 turns of the KMR-240 into a roughly 6-inch diameter loop. Zip-tie the coil to hold its shape and secure it to the mast.
This stops RF current from running back down the outside of the coax shield, which would otherwise cause the feedline to act as part of the antenna and degrade performance.
Step 6 — Weatherproof the Feedpoint
Since the antenna is taken down periodically for inspection, tape is not used here — dielectric grease alone is sufficient for the Buena Park climate and makes the connection easy to service.
- Inspect the solder joints visually — no cracks, no shorts
- Apply a generous coat of dielectric grease over every solder joint and exposed bare metal at the feedpoint
- Ensure all bare surfaces are fully coated — the grease displaces moisture and slows oxidation
- Reapply fresh grease each time the antenna is reinstalled
Check and reapply at least once a year, or after any extended period of wet weather.
Step 7 — Run the Feedline
Run the KMR-240 from the feedpoint to the radio. Notes for the cable run:
- KMR-240 handles bends well but do not force sharp kinks — keep bends gradual around corners and door casings
- Seal the point where the coax enters the house with silicone caulk or a weatherproof grommet
- Use appropriate adapters at the radio end to match your connector (UV-5R uses SMA-Female; most SDR dongles use SMA-Female or MCX)
Connector Reference
| Device | Connector |
|---|---|
| Baofeng UV-5R | SMA-Female (on radio) |
| KMR-240 cable ends | N-Male |
| Most RTL-SDR dongles | SMA-Female |
| Some cheap SDR dongles | MCX |
| Old TV coax | F-connector |
| Typical mobile radio | PL-259 (UHF) |
Use quality silver-plated adapters — avoid no-name adapters especially for 70cm where connector losses add up.
Notes
- The U fold wire length and shape do not affect antenna performance — only the two straight sections matter
- The feedpoint is the only electrical connection point — one solder joint per leg, nothing at the U fold ends
- Height helps but a mismatched or poorly connected antenna will underperform a lower well-built one
- For transmit use, always confirm your radio sees a reasonable SWR before running high power